Official Luthiers Forum!

Ooooooh boy, you guys are in for a pic fest, i'll have to spread it all on two threads again!

This how the back that was glued yesterday came out of my mold today











Trimmed the back flush with the sides



a view all around









Now sanding the rim to accept the top with Shane's 25' radius sanding dish, it makes this task a lot of fun and great exercise! Thanks Shane!





Gotta stop here, Dial up connections obliges. More pics in : Spoiling my people 2 Thread!

Thanks for watching!

Serge

Don't ya love it when a plan works?!! Say, are you planning on sending this guitar to Pete Townsend? Based on the number of side braces you've got in there, I don't think even he could crack it!

Han han, Carlton, it did crack at the shoulder, check it out on my other thread, thank God i had put them braces in the sides tho, the crack could have been worst!

Serge

Yeah, Serge, bummer! I guess Murphy had to visit you at least one more time before you finished.

I'm wondering--did you try to close the crack with the side braces installed? If so, that could be why it won't close cleanly. You'd have to remove the braces, glue and close the crack, then re-install the braces after it's dry. Ouch!

Big bummer then, i thought i could fix this up from the outside and went ahead and closed the box, i guess ill have to chisel it out through the soundhole unless you have a more brilliant idea which is what i'm used to from you!

Serge

[QUOTE=Serge Poirier]unless you have a more brilliant idea which is what i'm used to from you!
[/QUOTE]
Oh, man! You're in bigger trouble than I thought!

I'm at a loss for ideas on how to get those side braces off in a closed box. Hopefully, someone with some good repair experience can help you, because, as we've all learned, it's very easy to create a worse problem while trying to fix the first one.

Thanks anyway Carlton, hopefully, my bud Evan will come to the rescue!   

Serge

Goooooooooooo Serrrrrrrrggggeeee!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Thanks Larry, hey where did you get this cool avatar?

Way to go Serge!!
Cheers
Charliewood

Thanks Charlie!

Which one? Larry Boy or the one I had up for an hour today? Don didn't like it as well, and being a people pleaser and respecting Don's opinion immeasurably, I changed it back!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Larry, changing suits that quickly, you must definitely be an actah!

Here is what I would try to get the brace off - heat the area from the outside with a clothes iron, med setting - it will release the glue thru the side and wont harm anything else. I have used this to remove blocks that slipped alignment during glue up - works great, no burning at all - keep the iron movong around.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Thanks Tony, the crack is closed from the inside, just a narrow groove can be seen on the outside, but i can't see the light through the crack so i'll just do some filling with Titebond with EIR dust or try a narrow cleat!

Thanks my friend, i'm on the job but i'll keep you updated on how it goes!

Serge

Serge wouldn't it be better to fill with CA and EIR dust? Finish adheres to CA but not well to Titebond from my experience.

Anthony, from what Evan told me, it's better to use Titebond for its gap filling properties but as you say, CA would surely have been better for the finish adhesion, i just inserted a tiny cleat of EIR with Titebond and EIR dust, i'll go check this afternoon to see how it does, hopefully, i won't have to clean that gap for a third time

Tony, I also keep the clothes iron idea in mind just in case, Thanks guys!

Serge

Keep us posted. Glad it is coming together(that was a pun), I like the hot iron idea, I have done similar things with a laquer burn in
knife and a moist rag. I had not thought about the finish adhesion when I gave you advice, sorry if it causes a problem. As solely a repair guy I always work on finished stuff. A bit of shellac over the crack should help the adhesion though. BTW thicker viscocity CA has gap filling properties but it is harder to mix with wood dust.
Let us know how it goes, now back to work for me
4 guitars since 10 am....

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http://www.NewYorkGuitarRepair.com

I would use CA and dust (do all the time in fact for such challenges) - it will dry harder, faster (hey isnt that by April Wine, or Avril Lavigne for you bilinquists !!!) The Titebond will most likely show up as a lighter more opaque looking streak IME, and the CA will be darker and pretty much look like a grain line. Any time I have had titebond smears not totally removed near binding, the finish shows it up REAL good, then you are back to scraping it off again anyway.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Serge -- I think Tony's note confirms why you should go with CA.

If you have already used Titebond....once you have sanded the rib back to where you think you have removed all the Titebond linguering on the rib -- give the damaged area a light washcoat of shellac. You'll know within minutes whether there is any titebond that'll show under finish. (Better to find out sooner than later as Tony points out).

Thanks again my big brothers!

Anthony, i will do that when i get back to the shop, i'll sand the excess of Titebond and will put a wash coat of shellac and see what happens, if i'm not comfortable with what i see, i'll go along with CA and EIR dust.

Serge

Yep, the dust and CA works superbly. On my current build, I had just a hint of tearing at the cutaway... I sanded the side with a fine grit (320) to get some very fine saw-dust. A touch of CA and fine dust and I can't even find it anymore...   Got to love that CA on special occasions like this... Saved my keister a few times on build no. 1 as well...

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...